Haute Couture is a French exception and as the name of the Federation indicates, it lies at the heart of fashion’s ecosystem. It is a gateway between a tradition for perfection in know-how and modernity in creation. The Haute Couture collections are presented twice a year, in January and in July. Due to its unusual characteristics, it has been given a special status.
The official fashion week season of 2023 kicked off on the runways of Paris Haute Couture Week. For four days, celebrities, influencers and icons gave us front-row access through their social platforms as the biggest haute couture houses sent their designs down the runway.
The overarching theme of the season is disjointed, though referencing the past is certain. With homage to the 20s, 80s, and 90s, and an air of whimsical carnival couture, the trailing effects of the pandemic can be seen as fashion struggles to find a unified direction. Are designers trying to quiet down or get louder? Are we doing the minimalism thing or is it dopamine dressing?
One thing is clear- we’re not really sure where to go from here.
As 90s minimalism continues to trend, it’s no surprise designers would take inspiration from our 90s fashion icon, Carrie Bradshaw. In season 1 episode 6 of Sex and the City, Carrie dawns a flesh-coloured, figure-hugging, clean-cut mini dress, officially dubbed the “naked dress.” Different interpretations of the naked dress came down the runway, solidifying underwear as outerwear a timeless staple.
It’s well known that fashion recycles itself. Even going back over 100 years. This season, designers gave us an Edwardian resurgence. The Edwardian era is documented from 1901- 1910. Lace, ruffles, tulle, the puffy shoulder silhouette and the S curve were all typical signifiers of Edwardian dress.
We’ve definitely been seeing the 90s and early 00s have their moment in fashion again, but are the 80s also coming back? On the runways from Gaimabastta Valli, Armani and Valentino, models donned large, puffy shoulder pads in fluorescent pinks, neon oranges and electric greens. With gowns fit for a Dynasty, are we due a third Alexis Carrington comeback?
Maria Grazia Chiuri gave us what I am now classifying as “recession core” on the runways of Dior. Inspired by the roaring 20s, this collection was the opposite of roaring (I’m looking at you, Schiaparelli). Models sashayed in shades of black and grey with modest embellishments, reminding us that fashion reflects reality- that our days of conspicuous consumption are soon a distant memory.
A return to simple designs with luxurious fabrics in Alexis Mabille, Dior, and Schiaparelli collections using lamé, Schiapelli and rich velvets. A focus on timeless cuts using texture and opulence- garments that are trendless.
The overarching theme of Paris Fashion Week had to be “Welcome to the circus”. Alexis Mabille, Zuhair Murad, Valentino, Giambattista Valli, and Armani Prive gave us “clown aesthetic” with large Elizabethan collars paired with harlequin patterns. Alexis Mabille brought Cirque du Soleil with saturated psychedelic patterns. We even saw the Ring Master on the runway at Chanel in military-inspired cuts paired with large, costume-like top hats.
Following the circus theme, some designers were influenced by the performing species. Schaiperlli literally gave animal with embroidered and hand-sculpted materials including foam, resin, wool, and silk faux fur. Rahul Mishra gave us bird-inspired couture pulling inspiration from exotic birds.
Often paired in pastels with black, an unusual colour pairing, polka dots dominated the runways, like a love letter to the 80s when dots were En Vogue. High-contrast floral prints were also a popular choice.
Did you know polka dots have had a dark history? Check out my post for a historical account of the role dots played in fashioning society. The Dark Unexpected History of Polka Dots
Menswear-inspired silhouettes have dominated the trend cycle for the last few years. With large shoulder pads, oversized blazers and boxy cuts- proving a return to feminine tailoring is not making a comeback any time soon.
Soft pastels, for spring? Groundbreaking. In all seriousness, why fix something that isn’t broken? Trends aren’t always about the newest innovation or cutting-edge design. Beautiful fashion is exactly that- beautiful fashion.
And it doesn’t need to be more complicated than that.
Green was definitely the color of the season. In various shades of teal, kelly green, neon green, and emerald green- there was not a designer that did not send something green down the runway.
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